Kyoto lies 367 km West of Tokyo. Considering my status as a 'low-budget' traveler, perhaps it would be common to use the cheapest access as I could get. Well, yes, it happened for most of the time during my trip, but for my first inter-city journey (excluding the one between Sapporo and Tokyo, of course), I chose Tokaido Shinkansen instead of bus. Simply because I wanted to know how it feels to ride a super-fast train. If I went back to my country without ever experiencing the Shinkansen, what will the world say? *laugh*. Although it costed me some money, I would regret no more, right? *wink*.
So, that morning I checked out very early from the hostel, even the front office hadn't opened yet *grin*, and headed to Tokyo station. There was a liiitle incident with the ticket gate (and the station officer), but I finally could jump in at the last minute. Only few people were in the reserved wagon. From their suits, I could tell that most of them (if not all) were businessmen. Since it only took about 140 minutes by Nozomi train (also there are Hikari and Kodama trains) to reach Kyoto, they could easily attend the morning or afternoon meeting in Kyoto, then went back to Tokyo in the evening. Time efficiency matters a lot in Japan.
I got the window seat on the right side. From one website, I read that the passenger sitting on the right side of the train heading to Kyoto from Tokyo (left side if it is from Kyoto to Tokyo) can see Mount Fuji in clear day. "Nice", I thought. I kept guessing every time I saw mountain-like shape. "That must be Mount Fuji", once I saw this mountain. Fuji is the highest mountain in Japan (3,776.24 m) and become the country symbol, depicted in art and photograph.
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| Mount Fuji, don't you think? |
The train itself was the form of luxury. Comfortable seats, wide leg space, clear and big window, side-head lamp, folding table to place your laptop, electric outlet, even wi-fi spoiled the passenger. (Almost) no shake, no sound as the train ran at its maximum speed of 300 km/h.
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| My turn to show up ;) |
The train arrived at Kyoto station at around 9 am. Since, I had to take another train to reach my lodging at Gion area, I directly went to the appropriate platform and waited there for about 30 minutes.
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| Quiet morning at the station |
The lodging, named IchiEnSou Guesthouse, was located on a small road near Gion-Shijo Station on the subway Keihan Line. An old man showed me where it is as there was only a small sign placed in front of its small gate. The owner, Yashi, was sitting on his desk right in front of the door, talking to his guests. He was expecting me since I had mentioned that I would come in the morning to put my bags.
After a short rest while asking for advice, I decided to start from Kiyomizudera (Kiyomizu Temple) which could be reached by foot from the lodging. Phew, it happened to be pretty tiring to walk. Distance was bearable yet the heat was killing me. The signs directing to the temple was pretty clear. However, you need to pay attention as the temple area was connected only with two or three small roads from the main road.
I took the first road and turned left, starting the felt-like-endless uphill ride. Then, I met an intersection and decided to go straight. "Gosh, I think I'm lost", when I saw a house-like building on the right and a small temple on the left, not an inch close to Kiyomizudera.
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| I decided to go straight at the intersection and got lost! :)) |
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| Ryoma Sakamoto |
Better than directly turning back -while I had already climbed the hill- I paid for the entrance ticket at the temple area and climbed again! This time, it was stone stairs leading to a graveyard! It was the tomb of Ryoma Sakamoto (I recognized his picture hung at the ticket booth) and his troops (I suppose). Ryoma Sakamoto (1836-1867) was a leader of the movement to overthrow the Tokugawa shogunate during the Bakumatsu period in Japan. He played a crucial role which then brought about the Meiji Restoration. However, he couldn't see how Japan develop afterward as he was assassinated at age 31, not long before Meiji Restoration took place. Ryoma Sakamoto is honored as visionary who envisioned a Japan without any feudal trappings. In order to compete with industrially and technologically advanced outside world, the Japanese people need to modernize. Perhaps, without his contribution, there won't be modern Japan today.
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| Tomb of Ryoma Sakamoto (and friends) |
The graveyard itself was happened to be a part of Ryozen Gokoku Jinja (jinja means shrine) which was not opened for public except for the graveyard. Considering some cost visitors had to pay, it wasn't well maintained. That was even the first time I saw graffiti, if not to say vandalism, in 2.5 years of my life in Japan. Kinda surprised. Some small shops were also closed and its rolling doors became a place to put advertisement. But, if you see from the other side, there was always something good to offer: Kyoto from above.
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| Not well-maintained. Too bad. |
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| Kyoto, the city of history |
Before continuing the trip to Kiyomizudera, I stepped into Kodai-ji, a temple which was located on the left-side of the intersection, also right across the street leading to Kiyomizudera. The temple was established in 1606 by Kita-no-Mandokoro (also known as Nene) in memory of her late husband Toyotomi Hideyoshi. A beautiful garden lies inside the temple area, one of the finest garden of its period. The garden was designated by the Japanese Government as "Place of Historical Importance and Outstanding Scenery". Always love Japanese style garden..
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| Kodai-ji Temple |
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| Bamboo forest on the way out from the temple |
To reach Kiyomizudera, visitors had to walk through line of merchants selling various Kyoto-taste souvenirs. And believe me, they were all tempting *laugh*. I had to hold my shopping impulse or I would be broken in just a few days of my 11 days trip *grin*. As the sun was getting high, I decided to have a lunch in the area. I went into a restaurant serving tofu meal set and ordered cold tofu, instead of boiled one. The menu seemed to be local specialty since not just one restaurant were offering tofu meal set. The taste? Do not expect it to be flavory or you might got disappointed. It was only served with soy sauce (shoyu) as flavor enhancer so we could still experience the original taste of tofu. Although I was already familiar in eating raw tofu, it was my first time to eat raw tofu placed in a bowl of cold water (with ice), thus needed a small drain to 'catch' the tofu.
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| Merchants along the street |
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| Wooden buildings and bricks pathway brought old atmosphere back. |
A~nd finally I found Kiyomizudera. Walking through Deva-gate, a three-storied pagoda and a bell tower welcomed all visitors to the temple, which was built in 778 (although most of the recent buildings were rebuilt in 1663, during restoration ordered by Tokugawa Iemitsu). With 300 yen, we could enter the Main Hall (Hondo) while admiring the green scenery beneath from its large veranda. Beneath? Right. Kiyomizudera was supported by tall pillars -assembled without using a single nail- which made this temple unique.
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| The famous Kiyomizudera |
The name Kiyomizu means clear water or pure water which was taken from a waterfall within the complex, the Otowa waterfall. Three channels of water -believed to have wish-granting powers- fell into a pond and visitors could catch and drink one of them from a ladle.
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| Lining up to drink the sacred water from one of the three channels |
In the temple complex, there was also Jishu Jinja, dedicated to god of love and 'good matches'. Famous among girls, seen from those who make their wish there *grin*. Not far from the torii (gate), we could find a pair of 'love stones' placed 6 meters apart. Lonely visitors can try to walk between with their eyes closed. Success in reaching the other stone implies in finding true love. Since I only knew this story from my Japanese roommate the night after I visited the shrine, I didn't try to walk with closed eyes *laugh*. No, no.. I think I wouldn't try it anyway.
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| Jishu Shrine, for those seeking for true love |
That day was such an exhausting day. I got a terrible headache because of the heat and the sweat. After having enough rest, I went out around the area to buy something for dinner and found a shop that sells macha! (Maybe I should mention here that I like macha a lot! Later I found out that Kyoto is famous for its macha.). From various macha powder, macha sweets, macha ice cream, cold macha until macha ice shave with lots of topping selection were available. I bought cold macha with ginger and LOVE it. Well, not bad to end the day. In fact, I bought another glass the day after for my dinner *grin*.
On day 5, I had -what I called- a 'Temples and Gardens' trip in Kyoto, using a One-day Card. So, stay tune on this blog!
Lesson learned
> If it is your first time to ride a Shinkansen and you don't know the ticket system, I suggest you to buy it at the ticket desk, instead of using ticket machine. By this, you will certainly receive the correct tickets (two tickets), thus being avoided from having trouble with the station officer *tongue*.
> Backpack and sweat were not a good combination at all. In my case, it caused a terrible headache and nausea. It would be better if I let the sweat dry naturally by moving the bag to the front once in a while. Using an umbrella might also be a good idea (if you're not holding a camera all the time).
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2 comments
eh eh, kok kursi shinkansen nya asa beda sama yang biasanya adek naikin ya mut, special car ya?
ReplyDeletemaap baru tau ada komen hehe.. kalo ga salah itu yang green car atau no smoking car gitu ya? *berusaha nginget2*
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